Isabel Marant RTW Spring 2023 Review – WWD

Gigi and Bella Hadid led the charge on Isabel Marant’s leggy show Thursday night.

There hasn’t been a lot of boho on the catwalks this season, but Marant can always be counted on to deliver it one way or another. Spring was no exception, as she sent swinging tops and floaty mini dresses with macrame detailing, strappy cut-out necklines or open backs that made the shoulders an erogenous zone.

Micro minis in leather or allover metallic embroidery put the legs in the spotlight, as do low-heeled “no-shoe” barely there sandals.

The designer wanted to pay special attention to craftsmanship, she said backstage, hence a super sexy crochet swimsuit, a cool rope tunic resembling a fiber art piece and several open weave knits.

As usual, leather upholstery was part of the equation, this season with a motorcycle vibe. A comfortable black moto jacket and a set of cropped shorts looked great, while men’s and women’s earth-toned parachute silk cargo jackets, pants and cargo shorts showed a softer side. The season’s denim had a lower rise and slim or loose legs, balancing the ethereal tops.

“It’s the contrast of opposites that I’ve always loved about the brand,” Marant explained backstage.

It was refreshing to see intricate metallic embroidery on the runways again on mini skirts, a cropped fringed racerback top and a chic bolero vest. These body jewels had a vintage spirit and a scent of exoticism. And they will undoubtedly release a thousand copies, which is another thing Marant can always count on: cool-girl fashion pieces that resonate at all levels of the market.

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